Sitting on the deck one summer evening, our vineyard managers, Linda & Mike Neal, happened to mention that one of their clients had just budded their vineyard from Pinot Noir and had some extra grapes (didn’t everyone in 2005?) available and did we know anyone who needed some Sauvignon Blanc? A light bulb went on, and we began to create plans for choosing a white winemaker, immediately thinking of David DeSante who is the local, passionate expert on Sauvignon Blanc, having specialized in this variety for his own label and several other clients.

Within two weeks, we finalized all the winemaking and decided to use our successful E II label for our new white wine. For our first Sauvignon Blanc, we had to first establish a style we liked and one that the different clones and blocks of the vineyard were capable of achieving, so we tasted frequently with friends (18 bottles one night!) and winemaker David and his knowledgeable wife Katharine. We agreed that the steely, minerally, dry yet fruity style of the Loire and New Zealand were our preferences, so a plan was created and blocks in the vineyard were chosen.

The vineyard rests in Yountville’s Golden Triangle, where it is still cooled by the morning fog, but warms more quickly than surrounding areas and ripens the fruit more thoroughly. We choose a selection of three clones in almost equal proportions; Clone 376, a low yielding Bordeaux variety but with great quality, Clone 530, an earlier ripening variety from the Loire with generous fruit tones and Sauvignon Musque - a different breed from the true Sauvignon Blanc, but closely related, from the Loire Valley which, when picked early as ours was, tends to give a mineral character to the wine in addition to adding fresh-cut grass and floral flavors with a full body and extra flavors from guava to gooseberry. The Sauvignon Musque also has activated turpine expression in the skins, or the light spicy characteristic found in Gewürztraminers, which adds spice to the wine.

On August 30 we joined David and the picking crew to choose our grapes and within two hours they were off the vine, in the press and on their way to stainless steel to ferment. Within 5 months they would be in the bottle and a few months later ready to sell. This is quite a different and accelerated process to watching Cabernet Sauvignon age in barrels and bottles for 3-4 years!

With young Sauvignon Blancs, David explained that the nose develops first and the changes on the palate develop in the next couple of months in the bottle. Residual sugar tastings before bottling confirmed that our preference was “Bone Dry”, and so it is. The aromas are very forward and reminiscent of being in a summer farmer’s market with hints of passion fruit, guava, spice, white peach, mandarin orange and zesty lime with lemon grass and a touch of a floral element.

On the palate, this Sauvignon Blanc is lean and a little minerally but not too tart. Notes of lemon zest and grapefruit balance the rich stone fruits and ripe pear and guava. To create the clean, crisp mineral character we were aiming for, David used only one aged barrel during production and stirred the lees during fermentation. The barrel fermentation gives viscosity and roundness to the texture, as well as tropical notes in the mouth. There is a crisp acid and a clean, minerally and stony character in the finish.

Through the first 1-2 years of a Sauvignon Blanc life in the bottle, the bright fruit flavors mature into ripe poached pear and taste less citrusy and zesty on the palate. Yet this wine still should have a 3-4 year shelf life, it you should forget about it in the back of your cellar. But make sure to keep a bottle chilled in case company comes.

Because of the stainless steel fermenting and blend of different clones, the 2005 E II Napa Valley White Wine should pair beautifully with shellfish and especially lemon grass prawns or lobster and crab with a spicy aioli sauce. Sauvignon Blanc is an austere wine yet refreshing with food; it makes you want to have another bite of the meal and then another sip of the wine. Bitter and peppery foods also pair well. Try grilled and spicy blackened snapper with a salad with citrus, goat cheese and arugula or other peppery greens. Or just sip on the deck on a warm summer evening…